fresh thoughts

Thursday, January 31, 2008

How surfers deal with intensity

Have you heard of Mavericks? It's the big surfing competition near Santa Cruz, California that happens in winter, depending on predicted wave conditions. The organizers watch for just the right time, and if it happens, then they call the surfers, and the competition starts 3 days later. Some years the contest doesn't happen. But it did this January.

If you haven't seen the pictures, have a look--the waves are a big. As you might imagine, it is actually dangerous. The waves can reach 30 feet, crest to height. In fact in 1994, legendary surfer Mark Foo died in the waves at Maverick. It's for real.

Now picture it--you're a surfer competing in Maverick and you've made it to the final 5. There is prize money on the line, IN ADDITION to huge, exhilarating, but dangerous waves. Faced with this situation, the final 5 in this year's contest made a very interesting decision going into the final: they agreed to split the prize money.

huh? What happened to competition? To winning?

I have a speculation. I wonder if these guys wanted to just take the money out of the equation, reduce the intensity.

Why? To be looser, have more fun, and of course be more capable in the waves. A better chance at flow. I mean the stakes are already high enough, so why not take the money out of the equation, and be left with just good, clean competition? I wonder, too, if the high physical stakes creates a certain kinship.

Read for yourself and see what you think.

1 Comments:

Blogger Eran said...

This is so cool, and so interesting. How do You hear about those things, anyway? Is there a secret surfer dude in You? :-)

4:43 PM PDT  

Post a Comment

Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]

<< Home